Improvement in hat-conformators



2Sheets-Sheet1. 1.1. McKNIGHT.

Hat-Conformators. No. 144,855. Patentednowzaws.

WITNESSES:

INVENTOR:

J 0V i By 'Mdtlorneg/S.

2 Sheets--Sheet 2. l. L MGKNIGHT.

H'at-Conformtors. N0. 144,855. PatentdNv.25,l873.

I InV'l t 'l' M ammini-1 im:

WITNESSES: NVENTORZ UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JOHN J. M CKNIGHT, OF TARRYTOWN, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR TO HIMSELF `ANDABBAM STORMS, OF SAME PLACE.

IMPROVEMENT IN HAT-CONFORMATORS.

Specification forming part ofLetters Patent No. 144,855, dated November25, 187 3,' application led August 21,1873.

To all whom it ma/y concern:

Be it known that I, JOHN J. MCKNIGHT, of Tarrytown, in the county ofWestchester, New York, have invented an Improved Hat-Gonformator, ofwhich the following is a specification:

This invention relates to the apparatus for tting hats termedconformators,77 and particularly to the two principal parts of suchapparatus, termed, respectively, first, the conformator, as the meansfor taking and transferring the size and shape of the head; and, second,the conform 7 or bandbloek,7 which receives the conformation, andconstitutes the pattern on which the hat is blocked, so as to secure anenact fit. The first part of the invention consists in constructing theconformator with loose feeler-slides, working in grooves in thesupporting-band, constructed with short feelers, and held fromdisplacement individually by frictional spring-stops. The second part ofthe invention consists, first, in the employment, in the conform orband-block, of curved slides guided by pivotal studs or pins; second, inthe employment of an endless spiral spring for expanding theconform-slides; third, in the employment of a single tightening-screw incombination with presser-levers and equalizing connections, consistingof chains or their equivalents. Both parts of the apparatus areselfadjusting, operate positively, and are so simple as to be free fromliability to get out of order with ordinary care. The operations ofpreparing and setting the apparatus may be performed in considerablyless time than with other apparatus. The conformator is adapted to bemade very light, and does not forcibly gripe the head; consequently,when it is placed on the head, the proper position may be ascertainedatonce. The conform or band-block has-the advantage of a smooth outersurface of the exact contour of the original, owing to the lateralfreedom of the sections or slides, which adjust themselves, moving ontheir pivotal guides. The greatest saving of time is also attained inits operation, the sections being all secured in position by the.manipulation of a single tightening-screw in lieu of several.

Figure l is a plan view, partly in section, of a conformatorillustrating the first part of this invention. Fig. 2 is a verticallongitudinal section of the same. Fig. 3 is a perspective viewof one ofthe feeler-slides of the same, as made of sheet metal. Fig. 4 is a planView of the conform or band-block, and the patternband and set-blockused therewith, some of the slides of the conform being omitted. Fig. 5is a vertical longitudinal section of the conform or band-block,pattern-band, and setblock, on the line a, Fig. 4. Figs. 3, 4, and 5 aredrawn to a larger scale than Figs. l and 2. In relative size, theinternal diameters of the conformator correspond with the externaldiameters of the conform or head-block.

Referring to the drawing, A, Figs. l and 2, represents a conformator, bywhich the size and shape of the head may be readily ascertained, so thata pattern for an accurately-f1tting hat may be constructed therefrom. B,Figs. 4 and 5, represents a pattern-band of card or pasteboard thusproduced. C, Figs. 4 and 5, represents a conform or band-block, whichreceives the conformation from the conformator A by means of thepattern-band B, and itself constitutes .a positive pattern, on which thehat is blocked. D, Figs. 4 and 5, represents a set-block, which givesthe curve of the rim, and constitutes the supportof the conform orband-block C. The conformator A, Figs. l and 2, is composed of a ring orband, z, radial feeler-slides y, and frictional stop-springs a'. Theband z is oval or eggshaped, and of sufficient size to pass over thelargest heads. It may be rectangular in crosssection, more or less wideand thick, aspreferred, and is made in two parts, l 2, united in a planeparallel to the faces of the band. Radial grooves 3 and recesses 4,between the successive pairs of grooves, are formed in the under side ofthe part l of the band, and closed bythe part 2,'to form, respectively,guideways for the feeler-slides y and chambers for the springs x.

The band is preferably made of laminated Wood, with grain crossed, or ofhard rubber,7 and its parts are united by screws introduced through thepart 2, which is furnished with supporting-feet 5, and constitutes thebottom of the band.

The feeler-slides y may be made of wood, hard rubber, or anyv preferredmetal. They are preferably made of sheet-brass, of the form itselfindependently lof the others.

represented in Fig. 3, 'and are constructed with short feelers 6 attheir inner ends, and heads 7 at their outer ends -for moving the sameand limiting their movements, the bodies of the slides being thin, flat,and of uniform diameter throughout. The feelers proper are curvedoutward at their lower ends, which first engage with the head. Theirlower ends are square, constituting the gage-line. The shape of theintermediate portion is unessential. The springs are short coils ofbrass or steel wire, and operate by pressing on the feeler-slides withsufcient force to hold the same against accidental displacement.

The pattern-band B, Figs. 4 and 5, may be of any convenient paper-board,and constitutes a temporary negative pattern formed at each operation.

The conform or head-block C, Figs. 4 and 5,

is of the same general shape as the conformator A, the externalydiameters -of the former corresponding with the internal diameters lofthe latter, as before stated. This apparatus comprises an annular baseplate -or band, w, radial slides fv, an endless spring, u, for eX-panding the slides, and a retaining-band, t, for holdingor locking them.The base-band w is perforated to receive position-pins don the set-blockD, and may be iiat, as represented, or bent Ato `conform to the uppersur- It is face of the set-blockron which it rests. made sufficientlywide and thick to g-ive the required strength. On its upper surface, ator near its outer edge, this is furnished with rounded or roundprojections 8, which constitute pivotal guides, between which the-slidesare arranged in pairs. The base-band is further provided with verticalpins 9 and pillars l0, serving, respectively, to guide the retainingbandt, and to form bearings for elbow-levers s, for applying the pressure.

The youter ends 11 of the slides e constitute sections of the effectiveblocking surface. They are properly shaped to thus serve. The inner endslof the slides are furnished with retaining-lugs 12. The shanks of theslides are curved laterally, so that each slide may adjust The slidesare .constructed with perforated enlargements 13. to receive the springfu, which serves to unite the same, as well as to force them outwardwhen they are released. This spring is, by preference, an endless wirecoil, which may be formed by soldering or otherwise uniting the .ends ofan ordinary spiral spring of sufficient length. The lower surface oftheretaining-band tis, by preference, recessed to receive a packing orfacing, 14, of leather or equivalent soft Vfrictional material. Theretainingband is made of proper size and shape to correspond with thebase-band, in connection with which it operates, and it is perforated toreceive the guide-pins 9. On these pins, beneath the retaining-band,springs l5 are arranged to lift the retaining-band when released.

The preferred mechanism for actuating the presser-levers s isclearlyillustrated in Figs. 4 i

`respective ends; o o, grooved rollers on the upper ends of certain ofthe levers s; and n n, iiexible connections between the levers yas awhole and the nuts.

In the illustration, four pairs of levers are employed, and one of eachpair is furnished -With a roller, o, around which the iieXibleconnection n passes from the other lever of the pair t0 one of the nuts.By these means the several levers are actuated by a single screw, andthe force applied to the respective levers may be equalized to anyrequired extent.

The bands, slides, levers, hand-wheel, and nuts 'of this apparatus are,by preference, ina-de -of cast-brass 5 the vsprings of brass or steelwire 5 the pivots and bearings of levers, steel; the screw, iron; theiiexible connections. brass wire and catgut, as in the illustration, orsmall brass chains. These and similar-details are not, however,essential to the invention.

To prepare the apparatus -for employment, the edge of the conformator Ais rolled on any convenient iiat surface, and a leather strap or itsequivalent is tightened around the conform or head-block -G to force theslides y c yinward to their .fullest extent. The slides of theconformator are retained -by friction 5 .those-of the conform bytightening the retaining-band t, which is accomplished by turning thehand-wheel q i-n the proper direction The leather strap may then beremoved.

To use the conformator A it is held near the v.center with both hands-on opposite sides, the thumbs being placed under and the fingers on topof the band z; and it is (applied to the -head with the small end infront, and pressed down to the position which the hat-band is to occupy.As the conformator is lowered on the head, the feeler-slides y areforced outward until the feelers forma temporary band, conforming toevery curve, at the proper position. The frictionalspring-stops a: nowoperate to prevent the accidental displacement of the slides, while theconformator is lifted in upright position from the head, and invertedonto a sheet of card or pasteboard,B. The outline of the feelers is nexttraced with a pencil on the card-board, and the center thus indicated iscut out, forming the pattern-band B. To apply the pattern to the conformor band-block C, the conform being in position on the set-block D, thepattern-band B is placed over the same with the marked side down, asillustrated in Figs. 4 and .5. The slides n are nowreleased by turningthe handwheel q, when they are immediately projected outward by theendless spring u, until arrested by the pattern edge, on which theyarrange themselves under the pressure of the spring, being free toaccommodate themselves perfectly thereto by reason of their curved shapeand the pivotal form of their guides. The

slides are now locked by means of the retaining-band t, actuated byturning the said hand- Wheel, after which the conform or band-blockcessed supporting-band z, the radial feelerslides y, and the frictionalspring-stops x, the latter being so combined With the feeler-slides astopress laterally against the same, in the manner and for the purposespecified.

2.7The pivoted guides 8 and curved conform-slides o, constructed andoperating, in

combination With each other, substantially as herein described, for thepurposes set forth.

3. The endless expanding-spring u, in combination With conformslides o,perforated to receive the same, as described, for the purposesspecified.

4. The single tightening-screw r, traversing nuts p, grooved rollers o,and flexible connections n, in combination With the presser-levers s,for tightening the retaining-band t, and thereby fastening theconform-slides, as set forth.

JOHN J. MCKNIGHT.

Witnesses:

W. D. BLAKE, W. R. COLLINS.

